FUMI: An Elegant Modern Tapestry of Japanese Kaiseki in Lan Kwai Fong
Occupying the entire sixth storey of California Tower, the landmark standing as the heart of Lan Kwai Fong, FUMI is an elegant Japanese tavern of modern kaiseki. Offering omakase, multi-course set menus, as well as a stunning a-la-carte menu, we headed to the venue for a glimpse of the vibrant tapestry of Japanese cuisine.
Historically a culinary experience dedicated to only the royals, today’s kaiseki feasts are a form of haute cuisine that aims to display Japan’s most prized catches, the freshness of ingredients that make the cut, and minimalist cooking techniques that foreground seasonality.
Venue and Atmosphere
The space within FUMI is light and roomy, retaining a tactfully modest backdrop to spotlight the beautiful eats. Composed mainly of light wash wood, tessellating elements from Japanese artwork lend to origami inspired prints and shapes, with everything down to tableware sharing a simplistic yet refined air.
The main dining room seats up to 90, with a slender omakase section to the right for a handful of serious diners, before tapering off to an outdoor terrace that can hold 12. Guests looking for an extra layer of privacy can slip off to the VIP room, which can hold a group of up to 32 people.
Food and Drink
As rightly recommended by the team, the building blocks to a wonderful kaiseki experience at FUMI follow the basic flow of appetizers, fresh dishes, then hot dishes. Hitting all the elements of skilled culinary craftsmanship, as well as first-class ingredients, the formula brandishes a flourish of authentic Japanese flavourings.
A precursor for the treasure trove of seafood to come, we began with the appetizers of crunchy Japanese Fried Chicken in FUMI Style (HK$118), refreshingly stinging Octopus with Wasabi Sauce (HK$78), and minimally salted Edamame (HK$58). Perking us up for what’s to come, the extra fluffy chicken titbit with no need for extra sauces (though a drizzle of the accompanying lemon was welcomed) was an unconventional take on karaage that lies closer to a tempura in terms of mouth feel.
Taking the table’s stage as a captivating first act, we opted for an easily divisible 6 Kinds of Sashimi Platter (HK$568), which starred two pieces of each selected marine variety. Beautifully presented on a wood panelled tray set, the slithers of pale pink Toro and Salmon Belly, splayed out Hokkaido Sweet Shrimp, Hokkaido scallop, glassy Sea Bream, and creamy sweet Sea Urchin on cucumber were an absolute delight. Yuzu sauce accompanied the sea bream, whilst simple soy sauce with strong notes found a vessel in the rest.
Continuing with the theme of six, the sextet platter of Assorted Sushi (HK$368) took us to the next level up, bringing forward a series of well curated seafood sculpted into shapely bites with rice. Pickings that deserve a highlight include the briney Roe Gunkan Sushi popping with savoury umami in every sphere, melt-in-your-mouth Seared Flounder Skirt, and Shrimp that glistens with a dash of extra flavour from the crustacean’s prized gonads. Like the sashimi range, the collection houses Toro as a recurring staple, set against a set of seasonal recommendations that updates nearly daily.
Before allowing ourselves to get too full, a piping bowl of Miyazaki Beef Sukiyaki (HK$748) was set down in front of each of us around the table. Swimming in a fragrant broth rich in flavour yet light in consistency, the gently cooked beef felt like silk against the bouncy bites of konjac noodles and pillowy tofu.
To really make our icy drafts of Suntory (HK$70) and Orion (HK$70) count, we indulged in a final course of grilled skewers that included salt-and-pepper Miyazaki Chicken Thigh (HK$48) and Wing (HK$48), Chicken Cartilage (HK$42), Miyazaki Sweet Potato (HK$48), Japanese Sweet Green Pepper (HK$38) and scrumptious Mushroom (HK$38). Closing the night on a varied trencher that brought up hints of influences from izakaya culture.
Verdict
As tempting as it is to peg FUMI as a date spot thanks to the conductive environment for romance, we found that dining with a group there is an experience that allows for the full diversity of this a-la-carte menu to shine.
Depending on the headcount of your company, the assorted Sashimi (starting from HK$368) and Sushi (starting from HK$368) platters are fantastic choices blending the vision of the culinary experts behind the omakase bar and in the kitchen, with the prized items in all their best light. Under the realm of hot dishes, we really loved the Miyazaki Beef Sukiyaki (HK$748) and flavourful Miyazaki Chicken Thigh (HK$48).
Location: FUMI, 6/F California Tower, 30-36 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong
Contact details: [email protected] /
With Thanks and In Partnership with Lan Kwai Fong Concepts Ltd.
This food review is based on a complimentary media tasting provided by FUMI. The opinions expressed within represent the views of the author.
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