Lai Ching Heen Menu Pairs Yunnan Pu Er Tea with Cantonese Cuisine
Rated two stars by the Michelin Guide, Hong Kong restaurant, Lai Ching Heen, brings upscale Cantonese fare to the forefront of the local palate. This month, they bring diners on a sensorial journey to the neighboring region of Yunnan, where the leaves of Pu Er tea have flourished since the Tang and Song dynasties.
The menu, which is curated by Executive Chef Lau Yiu Fai, Head Chef Cheng Man Sang, and Tea Sommelier Kelvin Mok, showcases the distinction of Cantonese cuisine. Alongside Sichuan, Hunan, Fujian, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Anhui, and Shandong cuisine, Cantonese fare is among the eight major Chinese culinary styles. Though according to Chef Lau, the latter does stand to be “the most representative Chinese culinary style both domestically and internationally.”
To complete this tea-inspired menu, Chef Cheng and Kelvin had visited the Yunnan Tong Qing Hao Tea Garden in March of 2024 to further understand the nuances of the delicacy. “While Pu Er tea is suitable for all four seasons, tea leaves harvested in April and May are particularly good,” shared Chef Lau. “Tong Qing Hao’s tea leaves are praised as the best of Pu Er tea, and even chosen as gifts by national leaders.”
Pairing Cantonese cuisine with the warm and mellow nature of Pu Er tea then makes perfect sense. “Pu Er is named after the market town in Yunnan Province where it was first developed and traders bartered the tea, then transporting it by mules and horses in long caravans along established routes known as the Tea Horse Roads,” shared Kelvin. “It was discovered that with fermentation of the leaves, the tea actually improved with age, while aiding digestion and providing nutrients.”
Like fine wine, Pu Er tea leaves have a multi-faceted taste profile that evolve as they age. Depending on conditions and environmental factors, Pu Er tea can be smooth and fruity, peaty, grassy and musky, or herbal and earthy. “Pu Er is further processed through natural fermentation or artificial piling fermentation to produce loose tea or compressed tea; these are then categorized into raw Pu Er tea and ripe Pu Er tea,” Kelvin added.
For the menu, the tea sommelier has followed the instinct of pairing raw tea with light dishes and ripe tea with rich dishes. “Fragrant teas are suitable for vegetarian dishes, while red meat pairs well with black tea or the heavier fermented Pu Er tea,” he said.
These special courses – which is available from Aug. 1 to Aug. 31 – begins with a signature combination of buns and pastries made with ingredients such as baked Agaricus mushroom, crabmeat, baked black pepper wagyu, lotus root, and smoked abalone.
This is followed by a dim sum combination that infuses hints of tea with fillings such as pork, prawn, black garlic, and bamboo shoot. Dumpling skin made for the dim sum is in fact crafted from purple bud Pu Er tea, which is fairly bitter and while not suitable as a beverage, offers a unique balance on savory bites.
This third course to come is Wok-Seared Wagyu, which precedes what Chef Lau believes is the highlight of the menu: steamed rock rice with garoupa fillet and 25 aged, preserved vegetables.
“Pu Er tea itself has good health benefits,” commented Chef Cheng. “And when paired with seasonal ingredients, it can provide comprehensive nutritional support for the body in summer. For example, the Rock Rice used in our special menu is a medicinal plant, a pure natural and pollution-free plant seed, containing rich proteins, and vitamins. It has the effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, and has a fragrant and soft taste.”
Dessert finishes the meal with a Double-Boiled Sweetened Pear and Osmanthus Soup baked with puff pastry and syrup.
“Cantonese cuisine emphasizes freshness and a light taste with a style that pursues elegance and grandeur,” said Chef Lau of their menu. “The harmonious blending of flavors and the richness of taste in simplicity are the true portrayal of Cantonese cuisine. Coupled with superb knife skills and time-honored cooking techniques, premium ingredients release their natural and rich flavors in delicate Cantonese cooking.”
Lai Ching Heen is located at Regent Hotel Hong Kong
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