8 Memorable Looks from Spring-Summer Paris Haute Couture Week 2023

From Doja Cat’s appearances as a flaming red bejewelled extra-terrestrial of sorts, to her eyelash goatee and androgynous high-waisted pinstripe trousers and matching oversized coat – you will have heard of Paris Haute Couture Week whether you wanted to or not.

While celebrity appearances are a huge part of fashion week, the pieces that walk the runway are equally celebrated for their innovation and re-imagination in fashion. The Beat Asia looks back at our favorite moments and looks from Paris Haute Couture week so far.

Schiaparelli

Faux taxidermy pieces, avant-garde make-up, and extreme hourglass silhouettes that subvert gender expectations; these components of the Schiaparelli haute couture show was how Daniel Roseberry was able to blow up the internet with his outlandish designs. While you may have already been exposed to Schiaparelli’s designs over the course of couture week, don’t let it overshadow the extraordinary work and effort it took.

Christian Dior

Inspired by French Black star and civil rights activist Josephine Baker, Maria Grazia Chiuri dedicated the spring haute couture show to Baker after coming across archive pictures of the activist. The collection evokes a certain nostalgia for the 1920s, with less volume, re-imagined flapper dresses, and creased satins.

Viktor&Rolf

Curious topsy-turvy gowns by Viktor&Rolf featured unusually askew traditional-looking dresses. The atypical presentation of their work, from lopsided stylings, to impaling the models, sparked polarising opinions from those watching from home. What is fashion if not provocative?

Elie Saab

Using the Thai kingdom as a springboard for this couture collection, Elie Saab brought intricate embroidery, scalloped overskirts, and 3D lacing to fulfill his regal ambitions. Executed with flair and deceptively simple construction, Saab’s pieces echoed indulgence and paradise to contrast the dull Paris climate.

Chanel

Top hats and bow ties galore, Chanel’s Haute Couture show stayed close to classic tweeds, showcasing abbreviated, gilded versions of box-pleated mini-skirts, trapeze coats, and coat dresses. Switching from short and demure daywear, Chanel’s nightwear focused on body-skimming silhouettes with classic polka dot patterns and lace.

Giambattista Valli

The escapism of Giambattista Valli’s designs create an overwhelmingly powerful dolce vita of colour and optimism. Airy gowns with voluminous and expansive silhouettes take the reins, decorated in yards of sugar pinks, orange sorbet, and pastel blues. Accessorising with maximalist earrings, there is nothing quite as imaginative and playful as Giambattista Valli.

Jean Paul Gaultier by Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackerman reveals his Haute Couture line with great references to the house’s signature textures and shapes, effectively using monochrome palates to create entirely new takes on the masculine-feminine syllogism. Tuxedos with sharp angles, unpredictable slashes, and gently frayed ribbons; cone bras made up of thick satin folds; and siren gowns with intricate pleating to mimic the female anatomy in unconventional ways.

Zuhair Murad

Inspired by the glory days of the Belle Epoque of the French Riviera from the 70s, Murad pays homage to the parties, sunset colours, and parties that evoke a sense of laughter and sensuality from the golden years. Channelling the ‘romantic sexy’ gaiety of the bygone era, light materials such as tulle, chiffon, draped jersey, and pearl macramé were the main embellishments to his pieces.