Meet the Siargao-Based Restauranteur Bringing Comfort Italian to Manila

Gianni Grifoni enjoys the simple pleasures of life; that is, homemade Bolognese, a plain vanilla panna cotta, and the ebbing tides of his Siargao home.

“I like simplicity and simple foods,” the restauranteur smiles, placing a Margherita pizza on the table. A single basil leaf garnishes each slice. Topped with nothing else but tomato sauce and mozzarella, each piece still manages to glisten and tempt.

“I like to eat well and drink well,” adds the Italian. To clarify, this doesn’t automatically equate to Michelin-starred meals.

According to Grifoni, the best eateries in Italy are the ones frequented by truck drivers; those hole-in-the-wall places where you can get an appetiser, a main, and dessert for twelve euro. “Those places always serve fresh food,” he points out. “Turnover of ingredients is quick because lots of people eat there.” It’s approachable, in other words. And for him, approachability begins with simple – but flavourful – ingredients, cooked with plenty of love (and effort).

“Growing up, my mom made everything from scratch,” he shares. “I didn’t even have Spam until I was maybe twenty-six.”

Now, his restaurant, Grifoni’s, offers a similar experience. Located in three areas around Metro Manila, Grifoni’s can be found in Podium, BGC, and Alabang Town Center (ATC). If you’ve been to Kermit in La Union – and loved the food, much like I did – then you can bet you’ll love Grifoni’s. Its ethos is similar: to prioritise fresh ingredients and taste damn good. No surprise for a restauranteur who also owns a bodega in La Union.

In fact, food isn’t Grifoni’s only venture. The businessman dabbles in much of the hospitality and lifestyle scene, helming Villa Aurora in La Union and Siargao, and clothing brand, Gwapitos. There is also, of course: Kermit, La Bottega, and La Kantina in La Union.

His business decisions seem to have been influenced by a love for the sea, which explains why he’s enamoured by surf towns and beachside locales.

“I [wanted to] open a dive school when I first came here,” the entrepreneur reveals. Unlike most foreigners, Grifoni had discovered the beauty of Siargao early on in life, travelling to the Philippines first as a student in 2006.

“[My first trip to Siargao] took three, four days,” he says. “There were no flights at the time. We [went to Bohol] first and from there, took a boat to Cebu. Then we travelled from Cebu to Cagayan de Oro via land and ended up in Surigao. There were no daily boat trips, so we stayed overnight in Surigao and took a boat the next day to Siargao.”

That dedication paid off when Grifoni fell in love with the simplicity of a virgin Siargao. Unaffected by any direct flights, Siargao was a hidden treasure in the mid-2000s. But as much as Grifoni had wanted to pull up stakes and settle there, he had a marine biology degree to finish. He returned years later armed with multiple degrees and worked a stint with the DENR, eventually investing in land on the island.

“Back then, Siargao was all about the lifestyle,” he says, bittersweet. “Now it’s changed [and I miss how it used to be], but I wouldn’t want to settle anywhere else.”

In fact, it was also on this island that Grifoni discovered his talent for food. “I’m a bit ADHD in that my mind is everywhere, all at once. But when I’m cooking, I’m really focused. [In the beginning], I started opening up my home [in Siargao] to cook for people, and it just got bigger and bigger. I didn’t expect it,” he shrugs.

Now he has multiple restaurants under his belt, and a sizeable staff to train. “Since I don’t have any formal culinary training, I work with chefs who can translate my ideas into reality.” Thus, the birth of menu favourites such as Pizza Amore, Tagliatelle alle Polpette, and Gnocchi alla Sorrentina.

Having put his career as a scientist and marine biologist in the passenger seat for now, Grifoni dedicates his time to what matters most: his daughter, his businesses, and his travels. Jumping from island to island – and oftentimes, country to country – Grifoni casually lists down how spaces and cultures have directed him to settle in the Philippines.

From living in Bali to getting a job offer in the Maldives, visiting family in Switzerland, and vacationing through Sri Lanka, Grifoni knows that there isn’t a better place or time than to be in the Philippines. “Filipinos are very similar to Italians,” he points out. “We go to church on Sundays, we have big families, and we like to share food. I love to share food. When I cook, it’s really to share with others.”

With no prior background in what Grifoni is best known for now – business and food – it’s inspiring to see the restauranteur thrive. Everything he knows and has acquired today has mostly been through organic growth. But much like most surfers, Grifoni exudes a laidback charm that has me wondering what his secret is. No doubt, he’s smart. A scientist by trade, Grifoni likely has the analytical mindset one needs to succeed in cutthroat and highly technical industries. But there’s something else.

When asked, “Would you consider yourself lucky?” Grifoni immediately answered: “Absolutely. Yes.”

“Being at the right place at the right time is so important. I came to Siargao at a time when life wasn’t as fast-paced. I had room to learn, make mistakes, and grow. If I’d come to Siargao today – knowing only what I knew back then – I would have failed. No doubt about it,” he added.

Fortunately, Grifoni did come at just the right time. Having had the pleasure to dine in both Kermit and Grifoni’s, I understand that it would have been our loss not to have the comforting, home-style Italian he serves so close to our doorstep – both in the city, and on our islands.