Mulino: A Flavourful Mediterranean Escape in Tsim Sha Tsui East

Mulino strikes a soothing tone for dining in Tsim Sha Tsui East, hawking to the soothing vibes and cradled atmosphere of the Mediterranean, and delivering a menu packed with Moroccan- and Egyptian-influenced comfort plates.

Owing to the creation of Egyptian culinary master Mohamed Hegazy and Moroccan executive chef Faycal El Moujahid, Mulino’s 140-seater venue is inviting, with an al fresco space and appreciation of a culinary region reflected in each dish that blends southern European influence and Middle Eastern cooking flair.

The TST East restaurant is Chess House Restaurant Groups’ latest opening, following the successful launch of Chutney Tandoor House in Soho.

Venue

Set along the harbourside of Tsim Sha Tsui East, the venue’s al fresco space is charming, with direct views beyond the waterfront to the glitzy lights of Hong Kong Island. With its warm lighting and ornate furniture, Mulino’s outdoor space is perfect for an after-work tipple or communion with friends.

Deep inside the restaurant, the interior exudes warmth in an homage to traditional architecture found in North Africa: earthy brown hues and warm beiges colour the traditional brick walling and bar area, matching against bright Venetian plaster shades.

For cooler nights, the interior delivers a rustic yet hospitable atmosphere, with the charm of a Mediterranean village. The menu matches the vibes with a cuisine offering to satisfy the hearts and bellies of foodies.

Food and drink

Chef Moujahid brings his culinary experience managing restaurants and luxury hotels in Morocco, Dubai, Macau, and Hong Kong to Mulino, designing a menu that captures the essence of the manifold nations comprising the Mediterranean and comfort dishes close to his homeland of Morocco.

The sharing dishes are perfect for guests to flavour strong infusions of garlic, onion, and earthy spices in their mezze platters, fish and meat dishes, and vegetarian options. Mulino’s temperate and tangy starters begin with the Zaatar Beets Salad (HK$138), a delicate platter of slow-roasted beetroot garnished in feta cheese, almond crumble, chives and arugula, and drizzled in an orange and olive oil dressing.

Slightly tangy with the orange juice-infused dressing, the beet carpaccio salad offers a soothing bite and earthy flavour as an introduction to the spice-heavy meal, wetting the tongue for what’s to come. The almonds and feta cheese bring varied textures and necessary crunch to the plate that complements the fruitiness of the vegetables.

With influence from Italy’s southern coasts, the salty and tangy Vitello Tonnato (HK$188) teased my tongue with the release of acidity and umami, with ribbons of slow-cooked veal loin plated in a bed of tuna and mayonnaise sauce and served with caper berries.

Bringing me to salivation at the sight of this dish, the mixture of veal and tuna plays well, with the tangy snap of the tuna and capers mellowed out by the rich umami flavour found in the veal.

A highlight of the night was the creation of the Tableside Mutabal (HK$148), a famed Middle Eastern dip prepared beside our seats with mashed eggplant puree, yoghurt, sesame paste, a squeeze of lemon, a dash of olive oil, pomegranate, and spices.

As decadent as the tableside presentation of this dish was, the dip’s deep garlic flavour and tangy bite followed with the eggplant and lemon matched the elegance. We paired each scoop with a crunchy bite of sourdough bread to complement opposing textures.

With every dish and the design of the menu, chef Moujahid has imprinted his decades of cooking experience and life in F&B on every plate. With the Baked Aubergine Roll (HK$198), the chef plays homage to his favoured mother’s recipe of deep-frying eggplant with a rustic potato and cheese, topping with tomato sauce and parmesan.

Warm and soft inside, each bite holds well together with a great mouthfeel. I liked the slightly sour and apple-like fruity flavour coming from the tomato sauce that aims to season the eggplant and soft cheese.

To end the evening with a bang, we enjoyed a tasting of the The Butcher Cut (HK$398), a cut of U.S. Black Angus beef short ribs, braised in house sauce for 12 hours and finished off in the oven.

Paired with a sauce of choice, I went for Dijon mustard. The subtle grill finish can be well flavoured on each bite on the tongue, emitting a smoky charr and salty finish. The inside flesh was medium rare and held a pleasant fruity taste, which complemented the dusting of spices atop.

Verdict

For the adventurous foodies travelling beyond Soho and Central for an experiential meal, Mulino ticks the boxes for a momentary escape through the portal of Mediterranean cuisine. With temperatures dipping in time for cooler autumn nights, al fresco dining is perfect in this TST East venue, matched with unrivalled views of the lights of Hong Kong Island.

For your venture to Mulino, we think you should order the Vitello Tonnato (HK$188), Tableside Mutabal (HK$148), Insalata Di Polpo (HK$198), Baked Aubergine Roll (HK$198), Pappardelle Ragu (HK$298), and Roasted Whole Lamb Spare Rib Dusted with Cumin (HK$558).

This food review is based on a complimentary media tasting provided by Mulino in exchange for a truthful review and no compensation. The opinions expressed within represent the views of the author.