Maka Hiki: A Jungle Escape With Punchy Equator-side Flavours

Maka Hiki offers a cunning jungle escape in its urban Tai Hang space with a food-and-cocktail menu packing punches with piquant tang and sweetness inspired by the world’s tropical islands found in the Caribbean, Polynesia, and Southeast Asia.

Leading on his first kitchen “tiki chic” concept in Hong Kong, managing director and mastermind of Maka Hiki, French F&B veteran Max Traverse teamed up with chef consultant Russell Doctrove delivering a sharing menu of bold tropical flavours.

The Tai Hang bar-and-grill concept, a hidden escape to a jungle region of colour and beauty, is the third tropical island-theme dining establishment cultured under Max’s authority, following the success of Honi Honi Tiki Cocktail Lounge, Mahalo Tiki Longue, and Hong Kong’s former annual Rum Fest.

Venue

Within its urban oasis of a warm, verdant interior seating space and mellow lounge patio, Maka Hiki positions itself truly unique in competition with a local Tai Hang and larger Hong Kong industry: the concept and execution are performed well, driving home authenticity with Hong Kong’s sole island-themed diner.

The restaurant’s timbre and bamboo interior, paired with cool blue and light brown hues painted on walls and seating, exude warmth and friendliness found in the typical Hawaiian hospitality. Tiki heads and Polynesian iconography dot the indoor seating space, harping on an authentic Pacific dining experience, both in ambience and form of food.

Outside lives a breathing patio space bound to make neighbouring diners and coffee shops jealous, where guests can gather in seclusion beyond a busy Causeway Bay to sip on Honi Honi-inspired cocktails.

Food & Drink

Maka Hiki can be described as “a new beginning” for the acclaimed F&B guru Max, who sought to pair his success of introducing Hawaiian-powered libations to Hong Kong and an equally powerful Pacific-inspired food offering. “This has never been done before in Hong Kong,” Max told The Beat Asia at a private tasting.

The power of Maka Hiki, envisioned by Max and executed deftly by Russell, is in the sharing of both flavours and influences of a global tropical tasting and how dishes are designed to be flavoured. “Sharing is caring [at Maka Hiki]. The more you share, the more you care.”

The tropical island getaway begins with punchy flavours in Southeast Asian-inspired starters, aromatic curries paired with coconut-infused garnitures, fresh seafoods, and grilled meats with a Caribbean flex. Our flavouring began with a delectable Mauritian Tamarind, Mango & Pineapple Salad (HK$120), a sweet and sour salad blending chilli with juiced sweet fruits, an immediate intro to the playful mixing of flavours Maka Hiki endeavour in.

Coating in a sweetened nuoc cham sauce, each bite into a mango and pineapple chunk releases a sharp umami and salty aroma in the nose whilst the fresh fruits cover the tongue for a dual-pleasure bite. The addictive flavour combination is elevated with chilli spice and a sharp bitterness of the coriander to play on the savoury profile on the salad.

With our palates juiced with a delectable sweetness, we continued with the Spicy Lamb Patties (HK$135), three minced lamb balls shallow fried with a mint green chilli chutney drizzled and served in a bed of tangy, honeyed yoghurt.

The meatballs are cooked well, with a hard exterior that stresses a sweet aftertaste with a strong Mayard reaction. Notable is the yoghurt that is served with the lamb, provided to cut the herby flavour and fattiness of the meat with its creamy texture. Flavour-wise, this dish delivers with an earthy, smoky lamb flavour. However, I do wish each patty was larger to reflect the price point.

Our third starter, the Coconut Indo Fried Chicken (HK$145), was arguably the highlight of our meal – a version of fried chicken (a la goujons) that I have rarely flavoured but will continue to return to now – marinated in a coconut milk that seeps deep within and served in a chilli mayo, acidic, salivating, and fatty.

Coated in a dried red chilli rub, each chicken chunk oozes with coconut-rich and nutty juice overflowing with a milky calcium and umami flavour. The chilli adds complexity with a subtle tingle with each piece. Pairing with the chilli mayo, the goujons mix a savoury spice with a sweet tang, driving an addiction for the meat.

We dug into the Whole Red Snapper (HK$360) for mains, a freshly Southeast Asian recipe harnessing a green herb paste – a variety of leafy vegetables and herbs – to penetrate a bitter and iron-rich flavour into the flesh of the fish, roasted in a banana leaf to preserve juices.

The snapper meat is fresh with an acidity that invigorates its meaty flavour with the cooked lime and soaked bitter banana leaf. The herb paste brings about a light body, although an accompanying spicy sauce or salt mix would be preferable to heighten the overall flavour profile of the fish.

To complement the meal for balance with sides, we enjoyed the Green Bean & Cabbage Pickle (HK$70) and Okra & Tomato Salad (HK$70), too. The pickle dish feature earthy and acidic flavours with cabbage, carrot, and green beans pickled in turmeric and mustard, whilst the okra and tomato focus on umami and peppery seasonings.

Both side dishes help clean the palate and tease the tongue for later meaty plates. The white pepper sprinkled on the tomato help mask a tang familiar with tomatoes, whilst the okra comes with shallots and cilantro to employ the slimy texture to carry a bitterness.

Atmosphere

On a Wednesday night, when we ventured to Tai Hang to dine in our island jungle escape, Maka Hiki exuded a coolness and authority not many other restaurants have mastered (in such a quick time too) with three unique spaces affording guests with a newfound equator-island-side comfort and hospitality.

In our conversation with Max, it was evident his “second baby” will survive a long legacy, in line with his former Honolulu-shaped cocktail bars, with the same formula breathing life into his food offerings: dining over sharp flavours with shared plates and rich punchy cocktails in a soothing environment transporting you to an island soaking up heat and sun.

Verdict

For the dining experience, chef-driven plate concepts infusing a whole global region of flavours, the personality of owner Max Traverse, and momentary escape beyond the city borders, Maka Hiki masks itself with a uniqueness beyond other concepts in the city.

The menu, boasting familiar flavours and eccentric experimentations, pairs well with cocktails offered at the bar, in a dining experience dedicated to enjoying a journey to try a concept never tested before in the city.

Next time, we are ordering the Coconut Indo Fried Chicken (HK$145) (we loved it), Salmon Crudo (HK$230), Grilled Mahi Mahi (HK$265), Australian Rib Eye (HK$660), and Slow-Cooked Beef Rib (HK$590).

This food review is based on a complimentary media tasting provided by Maka Hiki in exchange for a truthful review and no compensation. The opinions expressed within represent the views of the author.