Delish Eats: Terracotta Lamma, Island-stationed Mediterranean Oasis
November 29, 2023
Restaurant story: Bringing the characteristic Shady Acres group vibes to Lamma Island, Terracotta Lamma has gathered inspiration from its outlying Island surroundings to create a dining experience complete with chic Mediterranean sharing plates and a laid back atmosphere complementing the unique waterfront locale.
Chef story: Heading the kitchen is Chef Richard Solnik, whose expertise stretches across the map to encompass Greek, Middle Eastern, French, and Italian cuisines. Blending his influences together whilst drawing from local ingredients, the Terracotta Lamma menu is one that reflects Hong Kong’s ease of access to worldly dining – even on an outlying island.
What’s the vibe and venue like: Blink, and you might just mistake the spot for a gorgeous three-tiered holiday home. Occupying a nook along the main street, with its ground floor terrace overhanging above the waters, the stripped-down interiors create an inviting space for respite with its creams, tans, and wooden surfaces. A view stretches out to sea, with intermittent figures strolling along the pier.
How much does it cost: Shared between two, the meal would come to about HK$480 per person, excluding drinks and service charge. Cocktails come at a flat rate of HK$80 and are very well worth exploring. There is also the ‘Feed Me Menu’ option to let the team take reign and arrange a group-sharing feast for the whole table at HK$380 per person.
What is the menu about: Made to share and served in rustic terracotta plates (of course), the selection of dishes revolves around Mediterranean-style tapas and side dishes for grazing on, bookending a handful of char-grilled mains. Like the waves that lap along the shoreline in view, the flavours begin gentle, before gradually growing in depth.
What did we order: Hummus (HK$65), Smoked Labneh (HK$55), Grilled Za’atar Pita (HK$30/piece), Grilled White Anchovies (HK$95), Heirloom Tomato Salad (HK$120), Slow Roasted Pork Belly (HK$180), Grilled Seabass (HK$200)
(Not pictured) Warm Greek Olives (HK$35), Yellowtail Crudo (HK$145), Olive Oil Cake with Marinated Berries Spiced Cream (HK$80)
Hummus, Smoked Labneh, with Grilled Za’atar Pita: An indispensable staple to include in any Mediterranean-focused meal, Terracotta Lamma nails the classics. The technical flair in each item was palpable, with the smooth hummus being spiked with smoked paprika, the labneh blending in sumac to emphasize the yogurt’s refreshing taste, and the fluffy pita being dusted with za’atar.
Grilled White Anchovies: A cacophony of textures, the anchovies were served coated under a bed of crisped breadcrumbs, pickled shallots, and cucumber. The vinegary tang of the pickles was a fantastic complement to the tenderness of the flaky fish.
Heirloom Tomato Salad: Undoubtedly the standout of the evening for me, encapsulating the right balance between embellishment and letting the ingredient speak for itself. The umami of the tomato plays with the earthy fragrance of the Calabrian chilli that has been beautifully embedded into the whipped feta, alongside the bit of extra depth from the parsley.
Slow Roasted Pork Belly: The crunch of the pork skin, to me, was at once a reminder and sort of homage to the food of Hong Kong (it is where the restaurant is based, after all). The mouthfeel conjured up the familiar joy of biting into a Cantonese ‘siu mei’ roast. Where the dish diverges in its references is in the chimichurri-adjacent dressing and accompanying N’duja vinaigrette cucumber salad, both of which emphasized its cuisine’s cultural leanings.
Grilled Seabass: Swimming in a bed of Beurre Blanc and draped with crunchy vine leaves, the fish fell away onto the fork and tongue in tender, velvety bites. While maintaining its distinctively recognizable palate, this interpretation of the sauce offers a much more toned-down version that takes a rightful backseat to the freshness of the fish.
What we liked: The simplicity of the dishes is where they really shine. The menu’s concept ties a reverence for fresh ingredients of the locality with the concept of minimal processing and artful seasoning that’s true to Mediterranean cuisine.
On my next visits, I would love to try more of the grill-top dishes, and I’ve got my eye set on the Octopus (HK$195). A word of advice for all (including my future self) is to get to Lamma Island in time for sunset!
What we didn’t like: While traditional Mediterranean flavour profiles were evoked and dishes were generally cooked with considerable spice, there were several items – the Yellowtail and the Pork Belly – that I felt could have left a longer-lasting impression if it had sharper accents from its seasoning.
What you should order: Warm Greek Olives, Hummus, Smoked Labneh, Grilled Za’atar Pita, Grilled White Anchovies, Heirloom Tomato Salad, Grilled Seabass
Location: Terracotta Lamma, G/F, 47 Yung Shue Wan Main Street, Lamma Island
Contact details: Book here, +852 9176 7500
This food review is based on a complimentary media tasting provided by Terracotta Lamma in exchange for a truthful review and no compensation. The opinions expressed within represent the views of the author.
Enjoyed this article? Check out our previous Delish Eats reviews here
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