Chatting with Epicurus, Hong Kong’s Favourite Foodie

Within Hong Kong’s hectic and flavourful foodie scene, there is one reviewer-foodie-Instagram influencer that has cured a passionate following online with his dedication to sampling the finest delicacies and hearty classics the city has to offer.

Kelvin Ho, of the famous Instagram account @epicurushongkong, is one of Hong Kong’s most recognisable foodies, taking a sophisticated approach to exploring the city’s many international and Chinese flavours.

The eponymous food reviewer of Hong Kong, with an identity rooted in the philosophy ancient Greek philosopher Epicurus, who argued pleasure was the chief good in life, Kelvin seeks to explore the ultimate beauty in Hong Kong’s food, one bite at a time.

The Beat Asia sat down with Kelvin over a coffee in Sheung Wan to discuss his journey with food, why he began reviewing restaurants, and his favourite bites, places, and cuisines.

Thanks for sitting down with me today, Kelvin, for a chat with The Beat Asia. Would you mind telling me a bit about yourself and your history?

Thanks, Rubin. I was born in Hong Kong, grew up here, travelled to Malaysia with family at a young child, and went to Australia to study architecture at [the] University of Melbourne.

Why did you choose architecture as a study and career?

I’m more [of] a logical, scientific kind of person. I thought architecture [contains] a lot of maths and calculations, but it turned out to be very artistic. [At my job,] I was staring at the monitor every day and my eyes started hurting looking at the lines on the monitor.

I couldn't actually open my eyes anymore. After working for a while [in architecture], it started getting worse and I had to quit my job. I came back to Hong Kong in 2010 and started a career in constructive building materials work.

Have you always been interested in food? Was food an alternative career path when you quit architecture?

I actually started writing about coffee, believe it or not, in Melbourne. Right before I came back [to Hong Kong], I opened a café in Melbourne inside a shopping mall. I like coffee and I wrote about coffee [on my Instagram] page.

[I did not start in the coffee business] because I wanted to become a barista only. I wanted to open my own place to explore whether I could expand [my business in Australia]. However, with the restrictions of the shopping mall, I was unable to change the materials, style, and theme [of the shop]. It restricted me too much and I ended up selling it someone else.

Why did you come back to Hong Kong?

I wanted to travel! From Hong Kong, you can travel to a lot of places. Half of my relatives are in Melbourne and half are in Hong Kong, so I kind of get to choose.

So, you have always been a fan of coffee, Kelvin. Have you always been a fan of writing about food?

Yes. When I came back to Hong Kong, Open Rice (Hong Kong-founded food and restaurant guide website) was very popular. I noticed that a lot of people with influence on Open Rice were the same people that had a lot of reviews – 3,000, 4,000 reviews – but when I read the reviews they wrote, they would carry a local perspective when it came to reviewing overseas or Western food.

One of my biggest incentives about writing about food in Hong Kong is that it's an international finance centre. I felt like some people in Hong Kong had influence writing about food, but wrote from a hyperlocal perspective, criticising the food, and that would restrict Hong Kong from becoming an international city.

I wanted the international cuisines that came to Hong Kong to be able to shine in the city. I wanted to support the [food] scene and that’s what got me started to write about food.

What do you look for when you’re reviewing food? How do you write a review for a dish, cuisine, or restaurant?

The way I look at food is whether there’s a theory or philosophy behind it, and the personal character of the chef with his cooking.

In terms of writing, I will write in a historical perspective. The recipes we always cook and eat have a historical traceability that is not affected by politics or religion.

The larger picture is that I was hoping that if people study more about the food recipes and history that we would try to resolve your differences. Tracing back the history of the cuisine and culture allows me to see how a restaurant deals with a recipe or food.

And that goes back to why I started writing about food, because I feel like people just have prejudice about what they should have or what they like, versus what is available in the world.

When did you start writing reviews on Instagram?

I began in 2013 during the so-called second wave of Instagram. Previously, I wrote freelance for Chinese magazines producing food reviews of restaurants in the city.

After my published written work in Hong Kong, I began writing my reviews on Instagram and reached a larger audience.

Why do you write the reviews in English?

I began writing bilingually because originally, I was trying to build up my own influence in the culinary scene and have my own voice.

Do you get paid for your meals?

I don’t get paid for my meals. With new restaurant openings, sometimes I may be invited as an alternative media [persons] to review and cover their opening and menu. I don’t play the game of [restaurants] paying me to promote their product and buying Instagram followers.

I believe in having integrity and writing honestly. Writing reviews there is a triple balance point: promoting the business, catering to my readers, and writing critically and honestly about a restaurant.

Some restaurants or brands don’t like me because I am too brutally honest. When I write negatively, I try to be constructively critical.

What is your strategy for reviewing? Is it a new restaurant? Because someone or a friend has told you to go there? Or are you interested in places where many people have gone already?

I have my own strategy about it, my passion. My incentive is writing about traditional, historical food in Hong Kong. At the same time, I have to look out for the new stuff. You have to know what’s available as the absolute traditional base before you can approach modern [food].

[In] Hong Kong, [restaurants] usually reach a good standard by three, four months after opening, so I’m never the first one to jump on a review. I’m trying to have a good time rather than for the sake of covering [the restaurants] first.

Why do you eat food?

Personally, I am satisfying my hunger, and also, it’s a psychological thing. It’s a soul-satisfying thing. I prefer going to a restaurant and order one dish, or just enough for everyone on the table.

You mentioned to me that you’ve always been interested in Hong Kong’s food scene and actually hosted food tours in the city. Tell me about that!

Starting in 2018 until the beginning of COVID-19 [in early 2020], I have offered over 230 food tours in the city to showcase Cantonese cooking as some of the best food in the world. I began these tours after someone affiliated with Airbnb saw my Instagram and invited me to do these.

I completed tours in two different styles for tourists in Hong Kong: one, previewing high-end, Michelin Star Chinese food, and another, a mix of street food and Michelin Star dining.

What is your other job that you do Kelvin?

I work as a full-time freelancer and consultant constructive designer, creating furniture and spaces for F&B venues in Hong Kong, designers for restaurants to reach their full potential.

If you could name your top three favourite cuisines?

Actually, I eat everything, I can’t name three! Obviously, I have to save one spot for Chinese food. I like French and Spanish food, Italian and Japanese, and other Arabic stuff.,

Where is your favourite place to eat?

There is a snake soup restaurant in Kwun Tong that is currently my favourite during this cold winter, a very gamey shop. They sell a classic fried rice dish with cured sausages, deer, venison, and lamb.

What is your favourite thing to eat?

Either Japanese food because it’s usually healthier or a balanced Cantonese meal, with a soup, veggies, and a nice fish or meat dish.

And finally, what are your plans for 2022?

This year, my new year resolution, I'm trying to kind of like keep fit a bit.

Thanks for speaking with us, Kelvin.

Thank you!