Delish Eats: FRANCIS West, Middle Eastern Food Deserved for Hong Kong

Restaurant history: FRANCIS West is a new addition to the SoHo food scene, occupying a genial spot on Peel Street opened up to the street for an expansive space that serves recipes from the Levant region – namely Tunisia, Libya, Syria, Algeria, Egypt and Morocco.

Chef story: Five years after the now-original FRANCIS opened in Wan Chai, chef Asher Goldstein stretches his dominion on representing the cooking of the Middle East. The Cordon Bleu, Sydney graduate has overseen kitchens in Tel Aviv, Sydney and Hong Kong for more than a decade, uniquely inspired by his family ingrained in F&B in Israel.

What’s the vibe and venue like: Formerly occupied by an Italian, Australian, and Japanese restaurant in recent years, FRANCIS West throws its windows open to expand the cosy interior of warm browns and beiges to welcome patrons from outside within. It is a perfect addition to SoHo when you hear the crisping of the kitchen flames and chuckles from guests.

How much does it cost: HK$1805 for five mezze platters, five mains and two desserts split between four people.

What is the menu about: Chef Asher Goldstein heads west on Hong Kong Island to open FRANCIS’ exploration west of Tel Aviv, the north Arabic nations of Africa. The Maghreb holds much to savour for a menu that sees grilled meats, spice-infused vegetables, and an abundance of dips served for meals made to share.

What did we order: Stone Baked Frena, Burik, Mashwiya, Raw Tuna, Mussel Escabeche, Grilled Cabbage, Jerusalem Artichoke, Cuttlefish, Lamb Neck, Whole Turbot, Knafeh, Kumquat

Stone Baked Frena: Forget tandoor naan, the imported stone ovens baking the frena, a fluffier pita-variant, is what’s soaking up all the action, literally. It’s pillowy interior, still hot out of the kitchen, effortlessly scoops up the garlic-strong hummus and acidic matbucha. The three dips are addictive, watch out.

Raw Tuna: Served with Moroccan argan oil for a polished nutty finish, and dressed in minced almond and gazpacho, the tuna is a pleasant palate cleanser with a strong tangy dressing that surrounds the diced tuna cuts.

Grilled Cabbage: Who knew vegetables can harness such power when cooked, right? As colourful as the dish presents on the ornate grey plating, the cabbage is powerful on the palate, introducing pickled flavours with the pomegranate and beetroot slices and horseradish for a smoky cut to the buttery cabbage slices.

Lamb Neck: This was one of my more favoured dishes. The lamb neck is stewed superbly, melted down to a fine texture that oozes a salty juice onto the white bean and spinach stew beneath. Use the couscous bedding to soak up the lamb fat.

Whole Turbot: The plating and presentation of the turbot was fine. I liked the pumpkin ‘chershi’ spread that matched a buttery coating of the fish with a sweetness to calm flavours in the dish. This is a dish best and suggested for serving between friends in our dining party.

What we liked: The mezze dishes, especially mashwiya, raw tuna, and burik, shined bright on our table, priming us for stronger flavours later. Simply cooked, the hummus reigns as a new favourite in Hong Kong for a chickpea dish that harnesses the pungent strength of pure garlic and lemon cuts.

What we didn’t like: Simply served in a black olive, lemon and oil dressing, a sour addition to the turbot would help assist the fatty dish, bringing in contrasting flavours. It was a buttery and salty bite, but I was seeking more variety. For the lamb neck, I would like a tinge of salt or spice to cut the umami of the fava beans and neck.

What you should order: Grilled Cabbage, Raw Tuna, Lamb Ribs, Sardines, Quail Skewers, Mashwiya.

Location: FRANCIS West, G/F, 42-44 Peel Street, Central, Hong Kong

Contact details: +852 9039 0969

This food review is based on a complimentary media tasting provided by FRANCIS West in exchange for a truthful review and no compensation. The opinions expressed within represent the views of the author.

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