Delish Eats: Metropolitain, Decadent and Hearty French Fare and Wine
February 21, 2023
Restaurant history: Metropolitain is a presuming neighbourhood bistro serving homey French fare and modern wines in its Sai Ying Pun locale, where it has stood for nine years, prior to the hang-out hub the west-side neighbourhood has evolved into today. Operating under Pastis Group, the bistro is a favoured eatery for both Sai Ying Pun’s Frenchies and locals.
What’s the vibe and venue like: Metropolitain has outlived every restaurant on Sai Ying Pun’s gastronomic High Street, standing inviting and warm on its corner location, with large open-fronted windows beckoning diners to enjoy jovial bites and sips inside the cosy bistro. Clad with dark food, and plump green cushioning and walls, you’ll find that fun French feeling inside.
How much does it cost: HK$998 for shared soup and one starter, a pasta dish, and two meaty mains. Wine costs extra.
What is the menu about: Ask the wait staff and manager and you’ll be told that every dish holds an honest recommendation. Employing recipes from all corners of France, every dish is well-thought-out and carefully balances a share of seasoned meat and buttery carbohydrates.
What did we order: Soupe a L’Oignon (HK$98), Terrine de Foie Gras (HK$218), Ravioles du Royans Sauce a La Truffe (HK$148), Confit de Canard (HK$228), and Tartare de Boeuf au Couteau (HK$208).
Soupe a L’Oignon: Brothy with a unique beef-like taste and texture from the silky onion, the onion soup is an apt introduction to the fundamentals of French dining. The bread gratin served atop the soup provides a change in mouthfeel to the soup.
Terrine de Foie Gras: Whilst I am more familiar with foie gras seared or fried, the terrine releases sweet notes on its crispy exterior, pairing the raw slices on sourdough with fig chutney brings out the nutty flavour of each bite.
Ravioles du Royans Sauce a La Truffe: A simple pasta dish that borrows an Italian flair and connection from the Rhone Alps region of eastern France. The sauce isn’t overwhelming, with a classic truffle flavour. Bread for dipping for would be appreciated as the sauce is more numerous in quantity than the small ravioli bites.
Tartare de Boueuf au Couteau: According to the manager of Metropolitain, this is the finest tartare dish in the city. I agree. Its classic blend of capers, red onions, mustard and pepper in the dish, mixed with soft shreds of tenderloin, achieves a perfect tangy level that drives addiction for another and another bite.
Confit de Canard: The more classic of French dishes. The duck was served in a bed of beef jus and gnocchi that aided the moistness of each stringy bite. More gnocchi bulbs would have been welcome to soap up the juice and balance the meaty confit dish.
What we liked: Service at Metropolitain is considerate and welcoming. Each staff member holds a great knowledge for every bottle and plate, and the chef team is well-versed in French cooking techniques. Meat dishes served are cooked to a perfect tender texture.
What we didn’t like: The menu is not friendly for vegetarians, who are unable to enjoy any mains course meals, only dishes from the pasta selection and three starters.
What you should order: Terrine de Foie Gras, Soupe A L’Oignon, Tartare de Boueuf au Couteau, Poulet Fermier Facon Crapaudine, Navarin D’Agneau, Legumes Saisoniers.
Location: Metropolitain, Aspen Court, 46 High Street, Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong
Contact details: +852 6271 6102
This food review is based on a complimentary media tasting provided by Metropolitain and Pastis Group in exchange for a truthful review and no compensation. The opinions expressed within represent the views of the author.
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