Delish Eats: The Enclave, A Hidden Lush Garden Manor House Escape
March 09, 2023
Restaurant history: Headlining The Silveri’s culinary experience, the modern bistro emerged as the go-to dining venue for guests and outlet shoppers in time for Accor Hotel’s first MGallery lodging opening in Hong Kong. Taking up the upper-floors of the new branch of Citygate Outlet, the manor house-inspired bistro blends lush garden views with honest flavours and craftsmanship with a creative twist.
Chef story: Newly-appointed Director of Culinary Chef Stéphane Guillas has gone through the classic rite of passage that many aspiring French chefs dare to tread; including stints at 2-Michelin starred Le Bateau Ivre in Courchevel, and Hôtel le Crillon in Paris, as well as a year aboard the Venice-Simplon Orient-Express. As a member of the French gastronomic society Les Disciples d’Escoffier, Chef Stephane stands by seasonality in his cuisine, adding new items on the a la carte menu just in time for the Spring air of March.
What’s the vibe and venue like: The large restaurant space is shared by multiple tenants, including the bar balcony area which feeds seamlessly into The Enclave hall. Cornered by lush green gardens from the outside, the sizable dining room feels as though you’ve stumbled upon a little secret. With each table set up to create a private and intimate setting, guests are encouraged to unwind with breezy conversation, cocktail in hand, and celebrate the good company they’ve arrived with.
How much does it cost: We ordered a broad selection of around eight a-la-carte dishes to try out between two people. The meal averaged HK$1,200 per head, totaling around HK$2,400. Granted, the typical customer should be satisfied with just two to three mains each!
What is the menu about: Snapped into a wooden clipboard, menu items are listed in four sections of a musical composition. Staring with the overture, aria, harmony, and finishing with the finale - which represents the appetizer, entree, main course, and dessert in that respective order. The Enclave also provides lunch sets for an average of HK$230 during the lunch rush, but since we arrived in time for dinner, we decided to check out the extensive a-la carte menu.
What did we order: Mise En Bouche, Homemade Foei Gras Terrine, Yellowtail Ceviche, Japanese Eggs ‘6 minutes’, Tomato Tart Tatin, New Zealand Lamb Costal, Les Freres Marchand Cheese Platter, Savarin Au Rhum.
Mise En Bouche: Drooling with anticipation and curiosity for the chef du surprise, we were pleasantly greeted with none other than a pair of briny Britannia oysters paired with a creamy sardine pâté on a fluffy pancake-esque disk. Accompanied with a classic mignonette for some tang, the oysters were fresh and supple, in steep contrast to the savoury sardine pâté.
Homemade Foie Gras Terrine: A hefty serving of plump and pink foie gras terrine seems to almost glimmer on the plate next to its toasty walnut bread vessel. The buttery aroma of the foie gras rises up the plate, melting in your mouth while the savoury bread crunches to the bite. Foie gras in large portions may not be for everyone, but the thoughtful candied citrus sauce helps to zip through the richness, making it a perfectly balanced appetizer.
Yellowtail Ceviche: The yellowtail ceviche was not pulling any punches when it came to freshness and zest. Opting for red radish and green apple garnishing for added sweetness; the classic tiger’s milk dressing and salmon roe came together in a slow crescendo of umami and sweetness.
Japanese Eggs ‘6 Minutes’: We thought nothing of the unassuming egg in front of us until we took a light stab at the centre of the would-be yolk. It’s gooey insides oozed out into a soupy consistency, dressing the sweet asparagus and nutty Iberian ham in a heavenly cape, adding new dimensions to the dish.
Tomato Tart Tatin: A quick wine change was arranged to compliment the well-bodied tomatoes resting on a crispy puff pastry. Acidic but equally as sweet, the tart balsamic dressing ties the whole dish together – albeit in a fun scrappy way, as we ripped the tart apart and dragged it into the dressing.
New Zealand Lamb Costal: Creamy chickpea puree and a tangy tabouleh made the perfect accompaniment to the hearty New Zealand pan-fried lamb. A thick cigar of lamb confit nestled right up beside the centre, releasing savoury juices and tenderised meat upon the first bite.
Les Freres Marchand Cheese Platter: Cheeses from the famous French cheesemonger Les Freres Marchand were brought out, alongside dried apricots and poached pears – providing that salty sweet prelude before dessert.
Savarin Au Rhum: Brought to the table with a flourish and doused in a healthy helping of rum, the cake, which has likely already soaked up a hefty amount of rum syrup before plating, was just the right amount of sweetness for a savoury-toothed diner to convert to the other side. Topped with a tart pineapple, the meal easily rounded off on a high.
What we liked: From the intimate dining environment, the air of privacy, and the exceptional craftsmanship, dining with The Enclave feels like a secret you’d like to keep between you and your closest circle. With each dish having the potential to surprise and delight, the meal is likely to be the conversation piece of your night.
What we didn’t like: As someone who is a carb fanatic, I was a little surprised by the lack of carb or cream focused dishes on the menu. Diversity of the food groups something I personally hold dear to my heart, and I feel as though I would have loved to see a couple more carb-heavy options upon my next visit.
What you should order: Japanese Egg ‘6 Minutes’, Yellowtail Ceviche, New Zealand Lamb Costal, Savarin Au Rhum
Location: The Enclave, The Silveri Hong Kong MGallery, 16 Tat Tung Road, Tung Chung, New Territories
Contact details: +852 3602 8989
This food review is based on a complimentary media tasting provided by The Enclave in exchange for a truthful review and no compensation. The opinions expressed within represent the views of the author.
Enjoyed this article? Check out our previous Delish Eats reviews here
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