Yes, Chef! Nadine Tay of Fusion Middle Eastern Izakaya Habibi-san

Asia is one food-crazy continent! We take great care to pick restaurants based on culinary vibes, rankings on international gourmand guides, mentions in magazines, Instagrammability, and added hunger. Yes, Chef! features the region’s chefs’ stories of love and labour in kitchens that have made some of our restaurants the next big thing in Asia.

When Nadine Tay first entered the food service industry, it was a commitment driven primarily by practicality: she just wanted to make extra cash as a student.

It was during her shifts, then, as part-time service staff in restaurant District 10 where she felt that magnetism towards the kitchen life, the same magnetism that compelled her to enrol in culinary school thereafter to officially take on the chef's calling.

Sixteen years later, and with the honour of being Welbilt Asia's Rising Female Chef of the Year in 2022 under her belt, Chef Nadine stands as the head chef of Habibi-san.

(Wo)manning its fiery grills, she fuses the flavours and sensibilities of Middle Eastern and Japanese cuisine for an alternative Middle Eastern izakaya like no other — all while rising above the gender stereotypes of an industry that’s still dominated by men.

Meet Chef Nadine.

For the unknowing, may you share to us how you started out as a chef?

I’ve always been interested in cooking from [a] young [age]. My mother would send me to community cooking classes at the age of nine, but it all started with me being a part-time service staff at a restaurant called District 10 about 16 years ago. I had just finished my exams and wanted to earn some cash. Whenever I did my shifts, I would be very drawn to the kitchen, watching the chefs cook up a storm during a busy dinner service. It was only after a few months when I plucked up the courage to ask the head chef if I could try one shift in the kitchen, expecting him to say no.

To my surprise, he readily agreed and arranged for me to help out in the kitchen for a day! It was the best day of my life and an experience I’ll never forget. I had so much fun just helping out with the little things like learning how to make choux puffs, tiramisu, etc. That was when I realised the kitchen is where I wanted to be, and I worked towards that goal!

I enrolled in a culinary school called At-Sunrice and that’s when I officially started my kitchen life as a chef. Best decision ever!

What would you say were some of the struggles you experienced in your early beginnings as a chef? How did you work through these?

At the very beginning, I wasn’t used to the long hours of standing on your feet and missing out on special family [and] close friends’ occasions. But as time went by, I got used to it and would make up for the [lost] time on my off days. It helped a lot that my loved ones were understanding of my work situation and would often try to find [the right] timing around my schedule, which I very much appreciated.

What do you love the most about your work as a chef?

I love when customers enjoy the food I prepare. It brings me so much joy to see people enjoying their meal.

What's something about being a chef that you wish more people knew about?

I wish people would be more understanding of the F&B industry in general. [W]e work long hours and put in a lot of effort and work in the food we prepare, all for the passionate [objective] of showcasing our creativity and for our customers to relish in the food we prepare for them.

Who has influenced you the most as a chef? Why?

Chef Anthony Yeoh, the chef owner of Summer Hill, was the one who influenced me to become a chef and has been one of the key mentors in my career. I enrolled in At-Sunrice Academy because of him. I learned [about] all the fun things he got to do in school and that influence[d] me in wanting to join, too. When I started interning at his restaurant, I learnt so much from him and the other chefs there who have imparted so much knowledge to me that moulded me into the kind of chef I am today.

Walk us through a typical day in your life as head chef of Habibi-san. How do you get the ball rolling?

As the head chef, I have several responsibilities. The key ones are to ensure that the freshest ingredients are procured, food quality is up to standard, and taking good care of my team. I keep myself updated with the changing needs of our customers, because I want them to enjoy their dining experience at Habibi-san. It gives me great satisfaction when I see customers enjoy the food that my team and I have cooked.

What's one of the most meaningful lessons that being a chef has taught you?

People management. I’ve often been told that the moment you enter the management role, apart from ensuring that the food is top quality, it is managing people that’s challenging. Not only do I want all the customers to have a great time enjoying our food, [but] I [also] want to provide a positive environment for my team. An advice from one of my mentors, “You can’t expect everyone to like you and you need to know when to draw the line.” My focus is to rally my team to showcase our best culinary skills for our customers.

How would you describe your culinary philosophy and style?

My culinary philosophy is producing flavourful food at minimal wastage. Use every ingredient and stretch its benefits to the maximum, understanding the scent and flavours these [ingredients] produce. My cooking style tends to gravitate towards cooking over fire. I love the combined flavours and scent of smokiness and caramelised exterior that comes from grilling a meat [or] vegetable.

How do you strike a balance between the Japanese and Middle Eastern flavours of Habibi-san?

Japanese cooking features umami at its very core, while Middle Eastern flavours are warm and earthy notes [with] more acidic flavours. Spices are also crucial components where it enhances and intensifies the flavours of Middle Eastern dishes. When the two cuisines are combined together, it forms a perfect marriage of flavours. Japanese flavours provide the umami in Middle Eastern dishes and vice versa, certain spices used in Japanese cuisine elevate the dish. At Habibi-san, we cook honest food, nothing fancy, but food that speaks of flavour.

What is Habibi-san's signature dish and what makes it so special?

Brussels sprouts are a hit at Habibi-san! The Brussel sprouts are deep fried to golden brown and tossed in a Japanese dressing called Kinno gomadre, which is sesame-based. We mix it with pickled red cabbage and jalapeños, which add a bit of acidity & spiciness to the dish. People [who] are not [fans] of vegetables often say our Brussels sprout dish is their favourite.

What do you think sets Habibi-san apart in Singapore's vibrant restaurant scene?

We serve food that we ourselves enjoy eating. Majority of the dishes on our menu are grill-based.  We often have specials where our chefs will use their creativity to whip up new dishes.

You were named Welbilt Asia's Rising Female Chef of the Year in 2022. What does this award mean to you?

Winning this award is truly an honour and achievement! It makes the years of hard work, sweat, and tears all so worth it.  I hope to be able to meet [and] collaborate with the many other talented chefs out there.  I always believe there’s always something new to learn in this industry. That, to me, is what makes it so exciting about being a chef. Age does not matter, learning never stops!

As the chef (wo)manning the grills of Habibi-san, how does it feel working a job that some, still, would say is a 'man's job'? How do you work against the gender stereotypes that pervade the traditional restaurant scene?

It can be challenging at times to work in a male-dominated industry. When I first entered the industry, I often got remarks saying I didn’t look like a chef or someone who could withstand the heat in the kitchen. People often assume I am not suited for the kitchen based on my petite size and gender. A couple of times, I’ve been told a girl shouldn’t be working in the kitchen, as it isn’t a place for females. I mostly just roll my eyes at such comments. I often get judged based on the surface instead of how I work. This is sad but that’s the reality of it.

But I’ve [learned that] people will always judge you anyway.  It doesn’t bother me because the chefs and people I’ve worked with know how I work. They are the ones who have guided me throughout my culinary journey, and for me, only their opinions about my culinary career matter. The kitchen is my happy place. I love my job! So, I will continue to do what I love most, and I believe that it shows in my work.

What can we look forward to from Habibi-san and its team this 2024?

We are in the works of opening a flagship woodfire and charcoal restaurant, similar to what we are doing now. We aim to provide a more holistic dining experience for our guests with a curated beverage program that offers variety. We’ll leave it [at] that, we don’t want to leak too many spoilers!

This interview has been edited for clarity. Follow Habibi-san on Facebook and Instagram!

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