SS/24 New York Fashion Week Moments Impossible to Look Away From
September 18, 2023
The frenzied month of September has been informally dubbed the true beginnings of the fashion world’s calendar, as the big four fashion weeks of the world come to a start. The season begins with New York Fashion Week, which ran from Sept. 8 to 13, where over 70 designers across the spectrum of menswear, womenswear, and unisex apparel have got together to unleash their Spring/Summer 2024 creations to the world. Here are our most memorable S/S24 moments of this year’s New York Fashion Week.
Peter Do’s Debut as Creative Director at Helmut Lang
In a moving homage blending his nostalgia for his childhood years spent joyriding and road-tripping, a retrace of the signature Lang lineage, and banal iconography lifted from everyday New York living, it’s visibly clear that Do had set the stage to prove how fitting he is for the label’s directorial role.
Do makes constant archival references and transmuting them into new era-appropriate elements through either personalization or meshing them together with what could supposedly be classed as their Gen Z ‘equivalents,’ or both. Do evokes the sensibilities of 1990s-era Helmut Lang with crisp tailoring and clean shapes, superimposing them with paraphernalia evocative of life on the road (like vintage-sourced seatbelts), and interweaving takes on formalwear with classed up workwear. The show’s soundtrack, comprised of lilting poetry crafted by Do’s longtime friend Ocean Vuong, bleeds into slogans marking the venue, gradually appearing on the garments.
Do is also set to make his Parisian debut at the upcoming Paris Fashion Week later this year, slated to occur between Sept. 25 and Oct. 3.
Ralph Lauren’s First Return to NYFW Since 2019
Last making a NYFW appearance bursting onto Wall Street with the launch of Ralph’s Club, the King of Americana-prep Ralph Lauren returns with his S/S24 collection, premiering at the Brooklyn Navy Yard.
Reflecting the dichotomy of the industrial location and its glitzy reworked fixtures and furnishings, Ralph Lauren S/S24 plays into the marriage of eveningwear with the ease of throwing on one of their classic fitted polos. In contrast to the darkly romantic Ralph Lauren S/S19 season which dazzles with gilded textures and oozes glamour in the classical sense of the aesthetic, Lauren’s latest collection strips down the gravitas of the looks by throwing in daily wear cuts, denim, and boho fringes galore.
The closing outfit featured a beautiful leather, hand-sewn macramé piece modelled by Natalia Vodianova, who cascasded down the runway as a living, breathing testament to the detail-attuned craftsmanship emphasized by the brand.
Collina Strada Says Cheese
When the going gets tough, the last thing we would want is for some catcalling stranger to bestow upon us the unsolicited instigation (or sleazy instruction much rather) to smile. Diving into the forms, shapes, and silhouettes historically prescribed to the ladies, Collina Strada’s Hillary Taymour satirically examines the multiplicities within the feminine space in the gendered fashion spectrum, creating a reflexive narrative that revels in all things soft and ‘girly,’ before going on to deconstructing and rebuilding it all over again.
On the runway, the one accessory adorned upon each model was a tight-jawed grin remained plastered across their faces for the entire routine. Each look blended elements of the constrictive – bustiers, corsets, bodysuits, angled shoulders – with flowing sheerness, fluid cutting, and gentle pastel colours, ringing as a visual metaphor brilliantly reflecting on the show’s theme of ‘Soft is Hard.’
Luar Closes S/S24 Edition of NYFW
2023 LVMH Prize nominee and 2018 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, Luar founder Rahul Lopez brought a clash of references as this year’s fashion week closer. Making high-concept fashion more accessible, as reflected in the popularity of the Ana bag, founder Raul Lopez pulls together seemingly cacophonous elements of luxury and edginess with a confidence that resonates with the pervasive class commentary woven from his own lived observations.
Titled ‘Socorro,’ the collection is a cartography of Lopez’s Brooklyn, encapsulating the effortlessness of a New York native in making a spectacle out of the ordinary or expected. There were deconstructed suits, oversized collars seemingly tugging the wearer backwards, and skirts with an unconventional array of buttons that can be unfastened to reveal more skin, subverting glamour with DIY and street twists. Power-shouldered attires, suitable for all genders, further redefined contemporary fashion norms.
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