Delish Eats: REX Wine & Grill, Hong Kong Steakhouse Cutting Above the Rest

Restaurant history: REX Wine & Grill opened in August 2021 at the classy One Chinachem Central location, housing the steakhouse's sister restaurants Venedia Grancaffe and Octavium. Executive Chef Nathan Green joined Octavo Management Group to open the intimate steakhouse.
Chef story: Chef Nathan Green is a venerable character in Hong Kong. Landing in 2015, Green has manned the kitchen passes and menu creation at 22 Ships in Wan Chai, Sai Ying Pun’s open fire steakhouse Rhoda, and HENRY at K11. The year 2021 promised him expanded creativity in the kitchen to craft premium experiences at REX Wine & Grill.
What’s the vibe and venue like: Find a neon-lit logo of REX on Queen’s Road Central, and circle down a black staircase to find yourself in the cavernous steakhouse dining room. Nine tables dot the room, decorated in plush brown cushioning and elegant red chairs. Soft orange lighting set above illuminates plates below and casts an illustrious ambiance within the restaurant.

How much does it cost: A weekday dinner split between two costs HK$4,680, including the premium Rubia Gallega dry aged steak, a true rarity of beef cuts in the world.
What’s the menu about: REX consolidates the perfect steakhouse experience in a comfortable menu that shares Italian and Americana-inspired soups and appetisers, fresh-cut steaks of ribeye, tenderloin, and striploin, select shellfish and ground animals, and side dishes galore.
What did we order: Tomatoes on Toast (HK$180), Bluefin Tuna Crudo (HK$300), Rubia Gallega Dry Aged 90 Days Bone in Ribeye (HK$3,880), Green Beans, Anchoïade Dressing (HK$80), Sautéed Mushrooms (HK$80), Triple Cooked Beef Dripping Chips (HK$80), and Ox Tripe Gratin (HK$80).

Tomatoes on Toast: Starting with strong acidic and umami flavours, the cured Japanese fruit tomato is excellently prepared with a peppering of garlic, balsamic, and parsley to draw out fruity sour notes. The beef lardo served atop, cut from a 13-year-old Rubia Gallega cow, melted on my tongue, oozing rich beef flavour. I was hooked.

Bluefin Tuna Crudo: Introducing lighter colours in the form of rare tuna, the crudo and tartare combination shared exquisite light sea flavours with a cute addition of the pickled fish. It is a bright bite with a balanced combination of vinegary sourness and peachy flavour from the body of the tuna.

Rubia Gallega Dry Aged 90 Days Bone in Ribeye: There are many things that make this steak a contender for the best steak I have ever sampled, I cannot lie, but I will focus on both its delectable coating and medium rare meat.
Cooked on a fire grill at REX, the Spanish ribeye cut is lathered with a meeting of anchovies, charcoal salt, and burnt bone marrow, drawing out iron and umami-rich blood from the fruity insides of the steak to power home a salivating salt concoction of juice. Truly spectacular cut of meat.

Green Beans, Anchoïade Dressing: This dish surprised me. The thin green beans hold up powerfully with the anchovies and vinegar-forward dressing that teased the palate with a unique blend of peppery umami and earthy sour flavours.
Ox Tripe Gratin: Small but powerful in flavour, the ox tripe hawks back to traditional British trip flavours, serving a gratin crust topping with a rich tomato broth that plays with a blend of garlic and parsley. It harnesses the raw sour of tomato chunks to power the meatiness of the tripe.
What we liked: The Rubia Gallega steak was uniquely memorable for its playful character of fusing sweet and salty components in each bite. The green beans scored highly in my book, as well as the ox trip gratin, and beef dripping chips for great crunch and soft insides.
What we didn’t like: Not mentioned in this review, however I was slightly disappointed by the Sauteed Mushrooms, which held little power in driving home good peppery and salty flavours, as expected with steakhouse mushroom sides.
What you should order: Tomatoes on Toast, Rex Steak Tartare, Kuro M5+ Black Angus Ribeye, Chicken Parmigiana, Green Beans, Ox Tripe Gratin, and Roast Bone Marrow.
Location: REX Wine & Grill, B/F, 22 Des Voeux Road, Central, Hong Kong
Contact details: +852 2857 7157
This food review is based on a complimentary media tasting provided by REX Wine & Grill in exchange for a truthful review and no compensation. The opinions expressed within represent the views of the author.
Enjoyed this article? Check out our previous Delish Eats reviews here.
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