Asia is one food-crazy continent! We take great care to pick restaurants based on culinary vibes, rankings on international gourmand guides, mentions in magazines, Instagrammability, and added hunger. Yes, Chef! features the region’s chefs' stories of love and labour in kitchens that have made some of our restaurants the next big thing in Asia.

In Singapore’s ever-evolving food scene, where tradition and innovation often intertwine, few chefs embody that balance as seamlessly as Chef Heman Tan.

With a career spanning almost four decades, Chef Heman has built a legacy of pushing the boundaries while staying rooted in authenticity. He brings that philosophy to life at JB Old Street “Meng’s” Zi Char, honoring beloved recipes while giving them a modern twist that speaks to today’s diners. At American Mass Hall Junior, he brings the comfort and familiarity of American classics and blends them with Asian flavors, which in turn has bred bold and inventive dishes.

“Growing up, I was always fascinated by how simple ingredients could be transformed into something incredible,” he told The Beat Singapore, explaining where his ingenuity to create new dishes and try new, bold methods stemmed from. “I saw cooking as a way to create something meaningful, a way to build a future for myself.”

In our latest Yes, Chef! exclusive, we sat down with the “Ironman Chef” as he shared how he maintains that balance between tradition and innovation, his vision for the future of Asian street food, and the role he hopes to play in shaping its next chapter.

Hi, Chef! What inspired you to open JB Old Street “Meng’s” Zi Char?

The inspiration for JB Old Street "Meng's" Zi Char is rooted in my own memories. My name is Meng, and the idea for this restaurant came from a nostalgic blend of my childhood in Singapore and the time I spent running a small business in Johor Bahru. I have fond memories of mingling on the old streets of JB and enjoying Zi Char. These experiences, combined with a desire to evoke the vibrant food culture of Singapore in the late '70s and early '80s, inspired me to create a place that brings those cherished memories to life.

I wanted to create a place that captures that feeling of authentic, heartfelt food — the kind you'd find in the old streets of JB, but with a refined touch. It's about preserving a legacy while making it my own.

In a city full of zi char options, what makes your stall stand out, and how will you redefine how diners experience this beloved local style?

When it comes to our menu, I wanted to blend classic Zi Char dishes with some unique twists. You'll find timeless favorites like shark's fin and braised pork trotters. However, we also offer a distinctive version of the pig stomach soup, using chicken instead of pork trotters for a different flavor profile. We also specialize in crowd-pleasers like our pan-fried Chee Cheong Fun and our signature Tai Lok Mee.

What makes us different is a combination of two things: a deep respect for tradition and a commitment to innovation. I'm not here to reinvent the wheel, but to elevate it. We source the best ingredients and use modern techniques to enhance the flavors and textures of classic dishes. For example, we might use a special aging process for our meats or infuse our sauces with ingredients you wouldn't expect. The goal is to surprise and delight our diners, making them say, "I've had zi char before, but I've never had it like this." We're redefining the experience by showing that zi char can be a truly premium dining experience without losing its heart and passion.

You mentioned innovation. How do you keep traditional flavors authentic while enhancing a dish?

It’s all about balance. The foundation of every dish starts with the traditional flavors that people know and love. We don't mess with the essence of a dish. For example, for our Claypot Peppery Pig Stomach, the authentic peppery kick and tender texture are non-negotiable.

The modern twist comes in the technique — perhaps a precise sous vide cooking method to ensure perfect tenderness, or a tableside smoking presentation to add an element of theater and aroma. The twist is in how we present it and the quality of the ingredients, not in changing the fundamental taste profile. It’s about respecting the past while cooking for the future.

Your Claypot Peppery Pig Stomach and Pork Trotter Stew is a standout! What makes it special, and what other dishes do you recommend from the menu?

My Claypot Peppery Pig Stomach and Pork Trotter Stew holds a special place in my heart because it's a dish of memories — it’s from my childhood. While many places today use chicken, I wanted to bring back the classical version I grew up with, which is cooked with pork trotter. It's more than just a stew; it's a taste of home and a tribute to those cherished family memories.

What makes our version special is the meticulous process. We spend hours stewing the pig stomach and pork trotters with white peppercorns, making sure the meat is fork-tender and the broth is deeply flavorful. It’s a labor of love that pays homage to my roots, and it’s a dish that I hope brings that same sense of warmth and comfort to every person who tries it. If I had to choose just one signature dish, it would be this because it represents everything I stand for as a chef: deep-rooted tradition, meticulous technique, and having the ability to evoke a sense of home and comfort. 

Other dishes I’d recommend include our KL-Style Hokkien Tai Lok Mee. We use a traditional dark sauce blend and wok-sear the noodles to get that perfect "wok hei" smoky flavor. The crispy pork belly is the key ingredient. The Spicy Chilli Slipper Lobster is another favorite. We use fresh slipper lobster and a homemade chili sauce that has a fantastic balance of spicy, sweet, and savory notes.

You can also try our boldest dish, the Crispy Pork Belly in Red Fermented Beancurd Sauce. It's a modern twist on a classic “nam yu” dish. We use a unique sous vide method to ensure the meat is incredibly tender and then flash-fry it to get an impossibly crispy skin. The sauce is a delicious blend of funky and savory flavors that truly makes the dish stand out. This dish came about from a desire to elevate a beloved home-cooked flavor into a truly memorable, restaurant-quality experience.

How has your international culinary training shaped the way you approach Asian street food?

My international training, particularly my time in the UK focusing on American and European cuisine, taught me the importance of discipline, precision, and consistency.

While street food is often seen as rustic, my training has allowed me to apply professional-level techniques to these classic dishes. I focus on plating, sourcing high-quality ingredients, and ensuring every dish is perfectly executed every single time. It's a way of elevating street food without taking away its raw, authentic energy.

What do you see as the future of Asian street food in Singapore, and how do you see yourself shaping the landscape?

What I see for the future of Asian street food in Singapore is its evolution. With our hawker culture now recognized by UNESCO, it's more important than ever to preserve this part of our heritage while embracing quality and innovation.

I see myself as a bridge between the old and the new. Having had time to mature in the industry, my age has given me the experience and confidence to talk about classic, authentic food. My goal is to show that street food is not just about cheap eats; it's a vital part of our culinary culture that deserves the same respect and attention as fine dining. I hope to shape the landscape by inspiring other chefs to elevate their craft, focusing on fresh ingredients, modern techniques, and creative presentations, and to pass these skills down to the next generation. I see myself as mature enough to do that.

What unique experience do you hope to bring to Singapore’s dining scene with this new venture?

I want to create a space that feels like a trip down memory lane, but with all the comforts of modern dining. JB Old Street "Meng's" Zi Char is not just a place to eat; it's a place to gather, to share stories, and to create new memories over plates of delicious, unpretentious food. It's about bringing the vibrant, communal spirit of a JB coffee shop to Singapore, celebrating our shared love for great food and fellowship.

You also recently launched American Mass Hall Junior — how will it differ from your zi char concept?

While both concepts share my passion for food, they are distinct. American Mass Hall Junior is about a different kind of nostalgia — the comfort and familiarity of American classics like burgers and steaks, but with an unmistakable Asian influence. It's a fun, casual space with bold, inventive dishes. In contrast, JB Old Street "Meng's" Zi Char is a more traditional, comforting experience. One is a high-energy fusion, while the other is a heartfelt tribute to local flavors.

So, American Dishes with Asian influence. Can you tell us about a dish on the menu that best embodies this fusion?

Our Cajun Blackened Barramundi Fillet is a perfect example. The dish uses a classic American blackening spice rub, but we apply it to a local favorite, the barramundi. The fish is seared to perfection, creating a beautiful crust while keeping the inside tender and moist. The vibrant flavors of the Cajun spices are then balanced by a subtle, aromatic Asian-inspired butter sauce. It’s a dish that feels both familiar and new at the same time, a true reflection of East meets West.

How are you balancing comfort American food with the bold and dynamic flavors of Asia?

The key is not to overdo it. We start with a foundation of American comfort food and then use Asian flavors as a layer of complexity. We're not trying to create a strange, confused dish. Instead, we use ingredients like ginger, fermented bean curd, or unique chili blends to give a familiar dish an unexpected depth and kick. It’s about adding dimension without losing the dish's identity.

Having been in this industry for many years, how would you describe your culinary journey in three words?

First would be resilience. My journey has been anything but smooth. It's a story of overcoming challenges and never giving up on my passion. Second, tradition. I believe that no matter how much you innovate, you must always respect and build upon the culinary traditions that came before you. It's our heritage.

And lastly, creativity. This is what pushes me forward. It's the joy of taking a classic and making it new, of seeing an ingredient in a different light, and of constantly learning and growing.

What can we look forward to seeing from you in the future?

We're always working on something new! I have exciting plans for both the American Mass Hall and Asia Coffee House concepts, with the goal of expanding and bringing our unique blend of flavors to more people. We’re also exploring new ways to engage with the community, and you can always check out my Instagram to see what I’m up to.

Beyond the kitchen, I'll soon be writing my eighth book, a cartoon book in Mandarin about my life journey, with potential for translation. I also have plans to work with partners to bring a new concept of food courts to Asia that will feature a wide range of Asian street food, along with American and Western cuisine with an Asian twist.

Another passion of mine is being a ceramic artist. I envision a near-future where I can combine my love for cooking with my art, offering a fine dining experience where the meal is served on my own handcrafted ceramics — a complete art and dining journey.

I've also started a food program called 大小通吃 Heman找好料 (@hemanfindholiao), which already has a viewership of 78,000. Through this program, my goal is to introduce people to delicious but unpopular food, both in Singapore and around the world. I want to travel and recommend good food from the suburbs and local hinterlands, helping these stalls get more exposure and traffic. So, stay tuned — there's always something cooking!

American Mass Hall Junior and JB Old Street "Meng's" Zi Char’s is located at Asia Coffee House. For more delicious updates, follow Chef Heman on Instagram. You may learn more about his restaurants by following Asia Coffee House on Facebook and Instagram, and staying tuned on JB Old Street "Meng's" Zi Char’s Facebook and Instagram pages.

Location: Asia Coffee House, 101 Woodlands Ave 12, #01-16, Singapore 737719

Enjoyed this article? Check out our previous Yes Chef! profiles here.