“The future of humanity will be dictated by our ability to adapt.” With everything that’s happening in the world, from climate change to political upheavals, this quote from the 2017 Sci-Fi film “Blade Runner 2049” rings like an alarm in the abyss, making us wonder if what awaits us is a future that is dark, bleak, and terrible.

However, if there’s one thing Filipinos are known for, it's their resilience. This inspired Ino Caluza, the designer behind the well-known denim brand Viktor, to explore how a dystopic future can shape the way we dress and to prove that fashion can also adapt to its environment.

Last Oct. 16, the designer unveiled this bold concept at the Manila Fashion Week, showcasing several looks that combined precise tailoring with street-inspired grit. The “Dystopian Blues” collection was just as atmospheric and cinematic as the film it was inspired by, playing with various fabrics such as denim, leather, and wool to create structured jackets, blazers, skirts, and trousers. What transpired on the catwalk was a striking vision where rebellion, structure, and sophistication collide.

After the show, we got to speak with Ino to dig deeper into how this new collection portrays the evolution of his brand, and its ties to his own personal pursuits as a creative.

“I’m more of a visual person. The film cinematography and production design inspired me to do this collection as a sort of homage,” he told The Beat Manila, revealing the main inspiration for the collection was the film “Blade Runner 2049.” “With the current state of the world, such as the environmental impact of climate change, what types of clothes should we wear in the distant future? That was my thought when I created the collection.”

The designer further explained the fabrics used in the collection, revealing that dystopia can be translated as a feeling, so his choice of fabrics, such as leather, denim, and wool, represented the feeling of alienation, coldness, and protection against the elements.

“It’s a form of survival,” he emphasized. “The future might be bleak, but humans will evolve and manage to survive fashionably.”

As each model walked down the runway, his vision of creating a stylish apocalypse became a reality. From the set design down to the outfits, it transported the audience into an imagined, futuristic world where fashion became more than just outerwear, but an art that is both wearable and fascinating to examine.

When asked if there were any risks he took that felt exciting or terrifying, Ino answered, “Creating the mood, I guess. The mood or vibe of ‘Dystopian Blues’ reflects all the elements of the show, from the lighting, the stage design, the art installation, the models, the make-up, and even the Radiohead music soundtrack. Somehow, they complemented the bleak and cold atmosphere that we wanted to convey. At that time, I wasn’t sure if that would resonate with the guests when we first conceptualized the show, but it did!”

The looks were shadowed in hues of black, gray, blue, and indigo, but it was the styles and structures that made them eye-catching. The structured jackets seemed to be the highlight of the collection, showcasing a variety of designs in various patterns and cuts. Some were oversized leather pieces that swallowed the wearer but somehow still carried with finesse, while others had interesting design elements like billowing sleeves or clinched waists. The brand also soft-launched its underwear collection, which added another layer to the survival theme of the show.

When asked if he had a favorite look or one he considered encapsulated the theme best, the designer replied, “I can’t pick my favorites, but I must say the two opening looks of the show, the red leather jackets, the oversized jacket worn by Philippe, and the layered and textured look of Tyler are the standouts of the collection.”

Viktor has always been known for its denim pieces, which were a central element in Ino’s work as a designer and the brand. We asked about what draws him to the material, to which he revealed it was a personal preference and that it easily captures the essence of the brand he wanted to build — something that is practical but chic, rugged but structured.

“I’ve always loved denim as a material. Its versatility and practicality represent our brand. The more you use it, the better it gets. Plus, denim will never be out of fashion. It’s rugged and utilitarian, but can be casual and formal at the same time,” he shared. “Since I was a kid, I’ve always loved wearing jeans, and since fashion is the best form of self-expression, I was able to express my artistic side through it.  Later on, with my career in graphic design, I decided to switch to making custom-made jeans because I realized that this is my real passion, and the rest is history!”

His passion bled through each design, displaying different cuts and styles of denim that make it look fresh and familiar at the same time. The designer shared that they applied a lot of new techniques for this show, such as pleating and faux chenille.

According to Ino, the red jacket was made of five fabrics sewn on top of each other, then sheared to expose all the different garments below, giving it that layered multi-color effect. On the other hand, the showstopper finale gown was made of strips of pleated fabrics sewn and pleated together for a textured look.

They also created custom-made denim flowers, a concept idea by his assistant designer, Will Mueco. Made from discarded denim fabrics, the flowers went through various manipulations and treatments and were transformed into beautiful and strange brooches. Not only was it a clever way to reduce fabric waste, but it was also on-theme, like how the designers thought to create their own flowers amid the rubble.

More than an entertaining feast for the eyes, Ino’s new collection showcased the brand itself, its evolution, and how it intends to maintain its reputation while also keeping things fresh and interesting in the years to come.

“Viktor’s been quietly evolving for the past few years. After the pandemic, the brand is not just doing custom-made jeans but has also increased its product lines to include custom-made suits, leather jackets, skirts, and shirts,” he explained. “For this show, we were simply showcasing what we do best: making tailored high-quality Japanese denims, leather jackets, and premium wool suiting.”

Denim is universally seen as a staple of wearable design — familiar, functional, and timeless. But transforming it into something that transcends the everyday can be a challenge. When asked how he walks the fine line between fashion, art, and wearability, he answered, “There is a thin line that separates those ideas. Viktor is always about practicality. Wearability is a big factor in designing our collection, from our custom-made cowboy shoes and combat boots — a collaboration we did with Tina Andres of Antonio Manila and Gibson's Shoe Factory — to the accessories. You know you’ve achieved a good balance when all your models are excited to wear the collections, which in itself is already a good sign that you’ve created something special.”

The designer also shared how traveling to Europe served as a good eye-opener, helping him envision and shape the future of the Viktor brand. His annual trips to Japan also gave him a better understanding of the materials and fabrications they should pursue and experiment with in order to create new designs and other unique elements and details that fit the brand’s DNA.

Although “Dystopian Blues” gave us shadowed looks in hues of black and indigo, the future of Viktor looks exceptionally bright, having mastered the art of balancing fashion with wearability. When asked what’s next for the brand, Ino replied, “I don’t know yet, but after this show, we are far more excited to develop and evolve the brand into the next decade.”

You can learn more about their custom-made looks by following Viktor Manila on Facebook and Instagram.