In a world where ultra-processed food has become the norm, eating fresh, farm-to-table meals has become a rare treat. Because of Singapore's heavily compact and urbanized landscape, farms and farmers are often relegated to the back of one’s mind; everyone is simply too mesmerized by the cosmopolitan treasures of this modern city-state.

Though the city-state is home to nearly six million people, Singapore only has an area of 719 square kilometers (compared to Malaysia's 330,803 square kilometers or Taiwan's 36,197 square kilometers). In 2021, only 1% of its land use was dedicated to agriculture. As such, Singapore is heavily reliant on food imports; in fact, 90% of its food supply comes from other countries.

Yet, one restaurant stands out as a proponent of the farm-to-table movement, supporting local farmers and fresh food supplies, even creating unique Singaporean dishes within his kitchen for all to enjoy.

Adrian Chu is the chef who helms Rustica, a Singaporean restaurant that proudly touts the hashtag #localsupportlocal. Produce supplied by local farmers drives most of their menu and every dish is meticulously thought out to ensure locally sourced ingredients take center stage.

Some of their best dishes include a “satay” duck made with duck breast from Senoko’s YSH Farm and royal trumpet mushroom from Jalan Tenteram’s Spore Garden. Both are proud Singaporean food suppliers. There is also Rustica’s version of kaya toast, which is made with ricotta cheese, housemade kaya jam, and gula melaka syrup atop a thick slice of brioche toast. Best paired with coffee from local coffee supplier, Tiong Hoe Specialty Coffee, this breakfast combo is one that many come back for.

“We have a list of our local suppliers at the back of our menu and if you look into it, you’ll realize that many of them are small, independent farms,” Adrian says. “These farmers are very specialized in the things they do. This makes it easier for me to ensure that I get the best produce they have.”

As a chef, Adrian faces no fear when experimenting with food and constantly creates new recipes to add to his restaurant.

“I’ll first think of the dishes that I enjoy eating and then I’ll figure out a way to make it unique, while also putting the spotlight on local ingredients,” he shares.

As of late, the chef-owner of Rustica has been experimenting with locally grown clams from Ah Hua Kelong in Changi. Customers can taste them by ordering the restaurant’s Coconut Curry XL Clams. “Some as almost as big as a human palm!” Adrian says.

He's also been enjoying fresh lion’s mane mushrooms from GoldenCap Farm in Gambas Cresent. “Commonly [found] in Singapore, lion's mane is found in Chinese cuisine [but] they mostly use imported dried lionsmane. But now, at Rustica you can get to taste fresh locally grown lion’s mane [by ordering our Mushroom Murtabak],” he adds excitedly.

For his own restaurant, Adrian is meticulous in ensuring he gets the best of the best. Some laypeople may not know that a handful of “local farms” in Singapore are in fact big companies in disguise that grow their produce in Malaysia or Thailand. “I want to avoid getting produce that might be mislabeled,” Adrian shares. “That’s why I always request to visit the farm before we commit to anything.”

This is because for the chef, the “support local” culinary movement isn’t just a fad, it’s a lifestyle. He was first inspired by the farmers’ markets he visited on a trip to Northern California. “They are so passionate about supporting local,” he recalls. “I became determined to bring this passion back to Singapore.”

Aside from supporting local farmers, Adrian points out that consuming local goods also helps reduce waste: both the production of carbon monoxide required in imports and exports, as well as the production of packaging waste.  “People nowadays are already extremely conscious about their health, and by supporting local, they can enjoy healthy, organic products at a better price,” Adrian points out.

Today, Adrian has built a trusty network of farmers, fishermen, and suppliers that he both trusts and supports. “Many farmers in Singapore are very creative and think out of the box,” Adrian notes.

Due to Singapore’s limited land space, producing food might seem a challenge, but the chef has witnessed how resourceful his fellow Singaporeans can be. “Some produce locally grown mushrooms in a studio. Farmers are using empty carpark lots to grow vegetables like tomatoes. Now, it’s just a matter of persuading consumers – whether chefs or home cooks – to purchase these locally grown ingredients.”

Fortunately, there also seems to be a growing number of farmers based in Singapore. When in 2019, Singapore only had 221 local farms, in 2021, the number had increased to 260. Of these, 150 were land-based food farms and 110 were sea-based farms. This is promising for many Singaporeans, as the country plans for long-term food stability.

Another challenge that local food suppliers face is fierce competition. As of late, the local government has been helping grassroots food suppliers to market their produce but as Adrian reveals, for many years, Singapore had been relying on imported ingredients from overseas.

“It’s hard to deny that we have limited land space. We also do not have many natural resources and yet we are hoping to be more independent in our food source,” Adrian points out. I’m sure if local chefs work together with our farmers, fishermen, roasters, and producers, we will find a way to do it.”

Today, Adrian does his part by introducing unique dishes into his menu, highlighting Singapore’s rich palate and produce. Aside from an ala carte menu, Rustica also offers four-course and six-course meals that feature foods such as a Laksa Prawn Puff and Crab & Potato Cake.

But ultimately, it seems as if Adrian’s end goal isn’t in virality or popularity. “I think standing out is objective,” the chef muses. “What people think is interesting or unique might not be the case for others. What we want to do in Rustica is to provide great hospitality and quality food. Standing out is not the most important thing for us. What matters most is that our guests enjoyed their time dining at our place.”

Rustica is located at 462 Crawford Ln, #01-65, Singapore 190462