Sheung Wan is a neighborhood that hums with history. Its narrow lanes and century-old storefronts are lined with dried seafood shops and Chinese medicine merchants, each steeped in tradition, and the fragrant scent of ginseng, abalone, and aged tangerine peel. But if you look a little closer, past the jars of cordyceps and stacks of dried scallops, or even right by the entrance, you’ll spot something quietly watching over these spaces: cats.

Not just any cats, but guardian cats — protectors of the shops from pests and living advertisements rolled into one. Regal, sleepy, curious, and occasionally grumpy, these feline residents have made themselves at home among the scales, ledgers, and herbal bundles. But they’re not just mascots because they’repart of the rhythm of Sheung Wan life.

As Hongkongers and cat lovers, this wouldn’t be the first time we’ve heard of or seen the Sheung Wan cats. After all, this is the neighborhood that has the highest concentration of shop cats in the city. But as you explore the area more deeply, wandering between Des Voeux Road West near Soho House and the slopes of Po Hing Fong beside Man Mo Temple, it’s going to be a revelation. And it was such a privilege to be granted the unspoken “permit” to pet these adorable guardians, experience their distinct personalities, and learn about the shops’ “dynamics of power.”

At one shop, it was a ginger cat curled up beside a weighing scale, looking at you as if it were extending an invitation for a few pets. Another shop, a tuxedo cat perched like a sentry on a stack of dried squid and minding its own business. And then we realized: there are far more shop cats here than we imagined. Enough to make you want to meet them all, and potentially evoke your curiosity for an adventure in the neighborhood.

So here it is, a tribute to the furry guardians of Sheung Wan’s dried seafood and herbal emporiums. Each one has a story and a favorite nap spot. Let’s meet them.

Tung Yu Tai (東裕泰)

Tung Yu Tai (東裕泰) is a Chinese herbal medicine wholesaler tucked into the bustling heart of Sheung Wan, and it’s not just the dried scallops and ginseng that draw a crowd.

Running the front-of-house are three feline fixtures: Licorice (甘草), a mellow male tabby of unknown age, is often found lounging on a cardboard throne, surveying the foot traffic with sleepy approval; Duk Duk (得得), the social butterfly, is always curious, always ready to inspect a customer’s tote bag; and Fish Maw (花膠), their three-month-old daughter who is a graceful little shadow who prefers quiet corners but doesn’t mind a slap fight.

Together, they bring a cozy, lived-in charm to a shop filled with dried delicacies and herbal treasures.

Location: Shop 6, Kam Yu Mansion, 5 Kom U Street, Sheung Wan

Hing Wah Company (興華公司)

Hing Wah Company (興華公司) is a Chinese herbal medicine wholesaler with deep roots in Sheung Wan, and one quietly regal resident who’s been part of the scenery for over a decade. The shop’s unnamed senior cat, a 13- to 14-year-old female, has long mastered the art of blending in while commanding attention.

This senior shop cat has been quietly holding court at Hing Wah Company for over a decade, weaving herself into the daily rhythm of herbal deliveries and dried seafood orders. With a calm demeanor and wise gaze, she’s the kind of cat who’s seen it all, and prefers to nap through most of it. Customers often spot her nestled between crates or perched near the entrance, like a guardian of tradition wrapped in fur.

Location: Shop 3, G/F, Kam Yu Mansion, 8 Kom U Street, Sheung Wan

Man Kee Co. (文記行)

Man Kee Co. (文記行) is a traditional Chinese herbal medicine shop, and it’s also home to a feline duo that brings a touch of cinematic flair to the scene.

Miss Little Dragon (小龍女), a four-year-old female, lives up to her name: elegant, poised, and slightly mysterious, she moves through the shop like a character from a Chinese action film. Her younger companion, Drip (滴), a playful male around one to two years old, is more grounded, literally.

Often found curled up on wrapped parcels or darting between crates, he’s curious and quick, with a knack for finding the coziest spots in the most chaotic corners. Together, they balance grace and mischief, turning this herbal medicine shop into a stage for their daily adventures.

Location: Shop 2, G/F, Hua Fu Yu Commercial Building, 111 Queen's Road West, Sheung Wan

Hang Lung Trading Co. (恒隆貿易公司)

Hang Lung Trading Co. (恒隆易公司) is a Chinese herbal medicine wholesale shop where tradition meets feline charm. Outside its entrance, a tabby pair, one male, one female, both of unknown age, have made the red brick pavement their permanent hangout.

With monk fruit stacked behind them and the scent of dried herbs in the air, they lounge like experienced vendors, watching passersby with the calm detachment only cats can master.

One sits, one stands, both radiate the kind of streetwise serenity that makes them neighborhood icons. They may not have names, but they’ve got presence, and they’ve definitely got regulars who stop by just to say hello.

Location: G/F, 11 Ko Shing Street, Sheung Wan

Hip Woo Medicine Company (協和藥材行)

Hip Woo Medicine Company (協和藥材行) is a traditional Chinese herbal medicine shop where dried roots and remedies line the shelves, and where Licorice (甘草), a two-year-old female cat named after the sweet medicinal root, reigns as its unofficial ambassador.

She’s already mastered the art of lounging with purpose, often found nestled beside jars of dried herbs or perched on the counter like she’s ready to prescribe something soothing. Her ginger-and-white coat blends beautifully with the earthy tones of the shop, and her calm manner makes her a favorite among regulars. Whether she’s greeting customers or napping through the afternoon rush, Licorice adds a gentle charm to the shop.

Location: G/F, 23 Ko Shing Street, Sheung Wan

San Hing Hong (三興行)

San Hing Hong (三興行) is a Chinese herbal medicine wholesale shop where cardboard boxes tower and handcarts roll in and out like clockwork, and Duk Duk (得得), a male cat of two years and two months, is the resident blur of energy.

He’s got the confidence of a seasoned shopkeeper and the curiosity of a kitten. Whether he’s weaving between sacks of dried goods or perched on a shelf like a furry overseer, Duk Duk brings a playful pulse to the shop’s daily rhythm. His name, echoing a cheerful rhythm, suits him perfectly, he’s the heartbeat of the storefront, always in motion, always watching.

Location: G/F, 27 Ko Shing Street, Sheung Wan

Heng Fung Ginseng Medicine Shop (恒峰參藥行)

Heng Fung Ginseng Medicine Shop (恒峰參藥行) is a traditional Chinese medicine shop where herbal remedies meet feline harmony. Holding court amid boxes of dried chrysanthemum are Wolfiporia (零苓) and Atractylodes (白術), a five-year-old brother-sister pair who’ve perfected the art of synchronized lounging.

Atractylodes, the sleek black cat, stretches out like she owns the place, because, let’s be honest, she kind of does. Wolfiporia, with his soft gray markings and serene gaze, prefers to rest partially atop his sister, forming a purring yin-yang. Whether they’re napping through the afternoon rush or greeting regulars with sleepy blinks, these two bring balance, beauty, and a touch of sibling charm to the shop’s daily rhythm.

Location: G/F, 39 Ko Shing Street, Sheung Wan

Tsuen Yick Ho (全益號)

Tsuen Yick Ho (全益號) is a dried seafood shop nestled in Sheung Wan’s vibrant market lanes, and it’s graced by a feline with undeniable star power. Fish Maw (花膠), a 1.5-year-old female named after one of Cantonese cuisine’s most prized ingredients, carries herself with quiet elegance. Her white-and-tabby coat glows against the brick sidewalk, and her reflection in the glass hints at a cat who knows she looks good from every angle.

She’s already mastered the art of graceful curiosity, sniffing packages, inspecting crates, and occasionally posing like she’s in a street fashion shoot. Whether she’s greeting customers or exploring the storefront’s nooks, Fish Maw brings a touch of glamour to the neighborhood’s dried seafood scene.

Location: Shop A, 43 Ko Shing Street, Sheung Wan

As you wander through Sheung Wan’s storied streets, it’s easy to get swept up in the textures of tradition with the scent of dried herbs, the clatter of scales, and the quiet dignity of timeworn storefronts. But it’s the cats that add a heartbeat to it all. They lounge, they patrol, they nap in sunlit corners, reminding us that even in the most industrious spaces, there’s room for softness and stillness.

These feline guardians aren’t just part of the scenery as they’re part of the story. Each one has carved out a role in the daily rhythm of the neighborhood, whether it’s curling up beside a ledger or greeting regulars with a slow blink. They’ve become symbols of Sheung Wan’s quiet charm: rooted in heritage, yet full of personality.

So next time you find yourself in this corner of Hong Kong, slow down. Peek into the shops, chat with the owners, and if you’re lucky, earn the trust of a shop cat. Because in Sheung Wan, history doesn’t just live in the walls, it purrs from behind the counter.