Yes, Chef! Luca Fantin of Tokyo’s Bulgari Il Ristorante

Like many in his home country of Italy, Chef Luca Fantin found his culinary calling at a young age. In fact, it was his grandmother’s cooking that founded his appreciation for the craft, spurring a storied career that saw him cross continents from Europe to Asia.

Born in Treviso, the globe-trotting, Michelin-starred chef will mark his 15th year at the helm of Bvlgari Il Ristorante Luca Fantin, an award-winning restaurant perched atop the ninth floor of Ginza Tower in Tokyo.

Chef Luca is known for paying attention to fresh and seasonal ingredients. He recognises the importance of understanding the connection between the produce and its farmers, a thinking firmly embedded into the philosophy of the restaurant, where most of the ingredients used are sourced from Japan.

On Jan. 25-26, Chef Luca will showcase his culinary prowess through a four-hands collaboration with Chef Antimo Maria Merone of one Michelin-starred Italian fine-dining restaurant ESTRO. With seafood as the highlight, this special event will pay homage to Italian gastronomy through an eight-course dinner and a six-course lunch featuring both chefs’ creations.

Chef Luca spoke with The Beat Asia to talk about cooking and his upcoming collaboration with Chef Antimo.

Please share your background briefly. How did your passion for cooking begin?

My passion for cooking began [because of] my grandmother’s [influence]. She always made [food with love] and that led me unconsciously to the culinary world.

After graduating from culinary school, I worked at Ristorante Cracco in Milan and Gualtiero Marchesi's Hostaria dell'Orso in Rome. Later, I worked at three-Michelin-starred Akelaŕe and two-starred Mugaritz in Spain. Then in 2006, I became sous chef at the prestigious La Pergola in Rome. I was appointed to my current position in 2009, which means it is my 15th anniversary this year.

What can diners expect from your upcoming four-hands collaboration with ESTRO and Chef Antimo? Please tell us more about some of the signature dishes from Bvlgari Il Ristorante that you'll be sharing in this exclusive event.

I will introduce a menu featuring some of my most iconic dishes with seafood, selected out of more than 500 recipes that I created in Japan. As an Italian, this is also my tribute to the Mediterranean.

Some of them are Spaghetti Sea Urchin, a recipe that’s only possible thanks to the unique flavour of the Japanese sea urchins; and Aori Ika (Bigfin reef Japanese squid) and Cauliflower, which I first encountered in 2010. Since then, I have been exploring [various] Japanese techniques to prepare and cut squids.

How do you think your cooking style and techniques complement chef Antimo's?

I have known him for quite a long time. He is one of the chefs I respect. My approach to cooking is similar to his; to incorporate a variety of techniques and try to bring out the best in the ingredients.

Do you have any favourite ingredients?

My favourites are any type of seasonal ingredient.

What is the best thing about being a chef?

I believe that being able to meet people who have different backgrounds is the best part, as that allows me to grow both personally and as a chef, enriching my life.

What do you do outside the kitchen?

I often go jogging. I love it.

What is your advice to aspiring chefs?

Work hard but enjoy, and keep your flame lit for cooking!

Enjoyed this article? Check out our previous Yes, Chef! profiles here.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.